We don't talk about flamingos: why do flamingos in human care remain such a challenge?

Amongst the most widely adored, popular and (curse me) marketable bird species on earth: Flamingos.

Looking at zoo collections alone, amongst the 6 species in this family they are likely one of the most widely kept and displayed birds across the globe, standing strong, representing the class Aves alongside other charismatic avifauna like penguins, ostrich and pelicans.

As we celebrate another International Flamingo Day, I'd like to share my thoughts on the world's favourite pink bird and explore some challenges of flamingo husbandry both academically and through my own experience.

 

This will make sense later, trust me.

For me, of all the birds managed in collections, it seems fascinating that flamingos find themselves in the conundrum they do. Looking at them from a zoo perspective, thinking more on the finance side of things, flamingos rank up as one of the most popular zoo animals and as such, you would expect them to draw the same levels of motivation and investment as any other species in this setting. There have always been challenges securing large amounts of investment for the "little brown jobs" as Gerry might say. You have to consider the obvious here: zoos are charities in the main, with limited income. This income is based on zoo attendance. Zoo attendance is based on what people want to see. What people want to see is what they see as charismatic, the typical zoo animals, you can probably name them. Now I'm not going to wade into the ethical swamp of doom that is the charismatic zoo species debate, but this has some relevance here.

What I can never grasp about flamingos is how they have all the right criteria to fare very well in a zoo setting. They are not small, they are not quiet, they are one of the brightest and most recognisable birds, they are great, they really are. Any other species, say tiger, giraffe or rhino, would have long been relieved of the simple day to day chronic health problems that we see in flamingos still. Somehow flamingos still struggle with age old issues that seem surrounded with a mix of hyper specific academia and at the other end, wild folklore husbandry bordering on witchcraft. What is it that creates this almost unique situation?

So first we must delve into the elephant in the room: pododermatitis or bumble foot.

This problem has been studied, talked about, ogled at more than any other topic in flamingo care, to the point that I have even heard it be asked in the past that delegates at a conference avoid the topic because it is so prevalent that it can become a distraction from almost all other aspects of flamingo care. It does still seem that this issue lays at the core of flamingos troubles in human care, and there is a wider web of limitations that connect to this that many may have not considered.

I'll rush you through what pododermatitis means for a flamingo, but we won't dwell too long, it's not pretty. pododermatitis is at it's most basic level a bucket of similar issues that crop up in the feet of an animal, but few animals are plagued quite as frequently as flamingos. In flamingos (and many other birds) it manifests initially as hyperkeratosis, usually on the soles of the feet, in particular the soft skin around the foot joints. Sometimes it will be only a thickening of the skin, much like human skin thickens when you walk around barefoot on rough ground. over time this can develop into quite obscene deeper tissue injuries as the hyperkeratosis impacts the use of the foot. There are a few categorical deviations used to describe the types of growths that occur, although the interactions and causes of these are still not clearly understood. luckily for the keeper, they can all be treated largely the same way based more on the severity of the issue rather than the type.

 

Example of fissures, presenting deep inflamed splits between the joints.

 

The categories roll roughly as follows, 

1. Hyperkeratosis - generalised thickening of the skin - very common.

2. Fissures - deep cracks occurring between the joints, usually resulting as an advanced form of the first hyperkeratosis state. 

3.Nodular - these occur almost as tumour like growths on one particular joint (below the foot). 

4. Papilliotomous growths - these are strange outward growing growths that form almost brush like hard skin tissue and are most often seen in advanced cases.

As I said before, in terms of management the severity is the dimension of concern, and this can escalate in a couple of ways.

1. Tissue infection - split inflamed tissue becomes infected, forming abscesses within the foot. this occurs most often in advanced stages or situations where hygiene is very poor.

2. Skeletal contact - some splits can become so severe that they can reach bone and cartilage within the foot, which has very serious implications for both welfare and recovery.

As you can see, this issue is quite broad in its occurrence and in my experience is best addressed from a husbandry direction as a SYMPTOM rather than a stand alone disease.

In almost every instance of pododermatitis I have encountered in both flamingos and other birds, the problem has, when viewed in an honest, wider scale, been a by product of an environmental or physical issue, or lack of a provision that bird needs. That said, it's now more clear what needs to be talked about way more when it comes to managing these birds - environment.

 

Lesser flamingos in Tanzania.

First before we delve into environmental factors, there is another topic we must touch on: pinioning and clipping. When we talk about this as keepers we have to be mature about it and avoid falling into the hysterical pitfalls that society may throw before us, but we must also resist the urge to ignore the by-products of this process as if it did not exist.

Again I'm not going to run foolishly into the ethical debate about flight restriction in human care, but I can assure you that I do think about it a lot.

My current view is this: Some collections have a no pinioning policy, some collections clip, some collections have a mix of pinioned and clipped, some have fully flighted under mesh. Whilst there are some major welfare benefits in terms of behaviour to not pinioning and clipping, including display, mating and mental well-being, three things come to mind when I think about this in relation to flamingos and their feet.

1.Flamingos are very long lived birds and collections with mixed flocks of both pinioned and clipped birds are going to house pinioned birds for decades to come. Even policy cannot remedy this immediately.

2. Flamingos are so popular that the chances of them never occurring in human care anywhere in the world are 0. This is not a species that is likely to be phased out on welfare grounds (nor should it with the right care).

3. The realistic idea that any aviary anywhere can offer a flighted flamingo the type of meaningful flight space to perform any level of athletic performance is naive.

So considering these factors we can reasonably assume (ethics aside) that very few, if any zoo housed flamingos will ever achieve the level of flight activity that they might in the wild, so you can pinion, clip, not clip and the physical result is largely similar. The reason this is significant is that in removing the option of flight, you are also removing a certain percentage of time that a flamingo can spend not putting weight on it's feet. Of course this can't be easily quantified because a baseline does not exist for a zoo animal like this. We could make use of wild data but it still would prove largely unhelpful because these flamingos are not wild, and are not in the wild, so what seems most sensible is focussing on what the tolerances are in collections, rather than trying to jump for a bar that is largely unreachable within the limitations of human care (at this point).

That considered we can reasonably infer that our flamingos are spending more time on their feet than they were designed for, lack of flight being the first offender.

 

Interestingly, young flamingos do not develop issues until they are several months old at least.

 

Secondly let us consider that flamingos are primarily a water bird. Their entire lives evolve around it and I personally believe that it is considerably more important to zoo based flamingos than many realise.

Wild Flamingos live quite a different life to those in the zoo, not only can they fly freely as discussed, but they also love to swim, and I'm talking properly swim, like a duck might. Their living relatives the Grebes are highly aquatic and in some cases almost exclusively bound to water. Why then do we not see flamingos in human care swimming like this? this would surely offer more much needed relief to our flamingos overburdened feet?... Correct padawan, you have it.

For some reason, probably historical, whenever anyone has built a flamingo pool they have in most cases insisted of creating something like a large circular children's paddling pool (more on historical cultural husbandry crimes later) and these types of pools are problematic for 2 reasons:

1. They are often too shallow for a flamingo to fully submerge and raise it's legs into a swimming position in the first place.

2. There is seldom any motivation for the birds to make use of their swimming behaviours. They will like most birds only do things for a reason, and even if they have that depth, they often need a reason to swim which seldom occurs in a zoo setting.

So to gently conclude that portion, we can I hope, without being able to crunch any juicy numbers, agree that the removal of meaningful flight and real physical swimming behaviour will significantly impact the percentage of time a flamingo spends on it's feet. We cannot resolve the pododermatitis issue entirely, but more conscientious management could provide a percentile of relief to our birds and make an intolerable situation more tolerable for them, but it does require this kind of proactive husbandry that can predict problems before they arise; an approach I have always been an advocate for - there is often method in my madness! 

Moving on to the second and by far more immediately addressable portion of this dive, I present to you the historical crimes and folklore that have cursed (almost) every flamingo enclosure I have ever encountered.

First in the dock - Concrete.

Concrete is by far one of the most convenient but simultaneously inappropriate materials to find in a zoo. Ignoring it's awful environmental profile, it is hard, thermally very unhelpful and in this case, very abrasive on soft flamingo feet.

The two main reasons bare concrete is problematic are firstly it's thermal properties - on a basic level it draws heat from the surfaces that touch it, that is why when you put your hand on it you will feel coldness, it is literally wicking heat away from your tissues. In a natural sense it behaves thermally more like rock, likewise heating up in excessive sun. Granted flamingos do have systems in place to deal with cold, they are able to regulate blood flow to maintain heat within their body, but just because they can do this doesn't mean we must expose them to it. These abilities are largely evolved to offer protection to the birds in cooler water, not cold surfaces and cold air.

The second and more direct problem unprotected concrete presents is it's roughness and the way in which a flamingos weight is distributed through the foot. Imagine if you will for a minute, spending a day in a swimming pool made of rough concrete, you would I'm sure by the end of the day have some soreness, particularly around the joints and tips of your toes. The same is true for flamingos, who's soft feet were evolved specifically for use mainly on flat, soft mud. It may at first seem a trifle anthropomorphic to make this jump, but if you accept that physics apply equally to all things and that the exact pressure points which often present with hyperkeratosis in flamingos are the leading walking points of the foot.

 

Pleasant eh?

 

How does concrete get even worse? Slopes.

One way to really accelerate the deterioration of your birds feet is to increase the angle of the concrete, which creates even more pressure on specific points. Again, Flamingos are designed in the main for flat habitats, an those big ol' floppy feet were not made for rough slopes. You would be amazed how often I still see bare concrete slopes in flamingo enclosures.

Second in the dock - Folklore and legacy enclosures

We need to be real, Flamingos are a highly specific and evolutionarily unique family, yet like so many birds they often do not receive the level of attention to husbandry that they deserve. This is, I believe, down to their incredible resilience. In spite of having their selective issues they are very sturdy birds in general, they live a long time, they don't tend to suffer huge amounts of pathogenic disease and are able to hide their discomfort for a long time. There is also a strange phenomenon I have noticed with flamingos in particular that I have never noticed in other species.

"The Elysian Flamingo Lawn"

If you think about the times you have seen or worked with flamingos in a zoo, there are likely a few instances where you have seen them pottering over a bright green lawn in an almost disneyesque fashion, something like Alice in wonderland. Seems harmless enough, but where did this come from and why does it exist?

Andean flamingos enjoying that sweet soft mud.

For every other animal in human care we consider deeply what type of habitat the species comes from and do our best to replicate that as much as reasonably possible. Aviculture has a particularly rich history here, creating densely planted aviaries for small passerines, open grass plains for ratites, more sparsely perched, high aviaries for our vultures, who require a more open plan. So HOW did our poor flamingos get lumped with paddling pools and verdant lawns?

The direct answer to this question is probably completely by accident, and that old villain of progress in aviculture, folklore husbandry. For some reason keepers seldom thought deeply about the real habitats of these birds and just copied what they had seen elsewhere, or made adjustments to a hand me down enclosure. There are also some subconscious cultural connections between flamingos and lawns, flamingos and beaches, flamingos and cocktail bars... you get the idea, all have little connection to living wild flamingos.

The reality for flamingos is MUD. Soft, preferably inert mud. If you seriously look at wild flamingos all across the world there are three things flamingos look for in their habitat; flatness, mud, water and combinations of both. In some cases these birds are living in very extreme habitats that are inhospitable to almost everything (again thanks to their resilience) but those three requirements stay largely the same.

Walking on mud both on the land and even more so in the water is very gentle on feet. It moves and yields to the pressure of those joints, it does not resist them like hard ground, concrete or rock.

 

Greater flamingo in Southern France.

 

I find a strange satisfaction in seeing muddy wet zoo flamingo habitats with large deep pools that are made up largely of these soft types of substrate. Sand also is great for relieving pressure, small particulate sand has been shown to be particularly helpful in this respect.

It should be mentioned that several collections have made considerable efforts to improve indoor housing for flamingos, making use of softer rubber liners to cover concrete, adding indoor pools and internal substrates, but these have by and large been in reactive response to the increased pressures added by shutting birds into the houses, rather than a routine effort to create overall more helpful spaces for the birds year round, which long term we need to design from the ground up.

To try and conclude on what is a very deep and entrenched topic, I'd like us to consider the network of challenges that human care has thrown at flamingos and see that many are avoidable. Consider our tough pink birds, missing in many cases their options to fly and properly swim, compound that with the Alice in wonderland worlds they sometimes have to inhabit that are doing nothing at all for the health of their already overused feet and you can maybe see on wide scale how this very common issue is a manifestation, a symptom of a wider issue that flamingo custodians could do better to remedy.

I'd like to give you with a few info bites that highlight how we often fall into accepting the state of husbandry as acceptable because it seems difficult to change.

- Flamingos are probably one of the most well studied birds living in zoos, pododermatitis in particular having been extensively documented, so the academic literature to tackle this is available and has been for some time.

- Studies of wild flamingos show an almost 0% incidence of pododermatitis - the wild is offering something we are currently not. On average around 90% of flamingos in human care suffer with some level of pododermatitis by comparison.

- The most Northerly population of flamingos exist in a feral state in Germany and fly out to the coast in winter once the chances of ice set in - Generally speaking flamingos avoid cold and ice when they can, and this can be seen in their natural distributions and migration patterns. I don't think cold is a sole cause, but have a hunch that it presents a significantly bigger issue than we currently think.

 

Are you sensing a theme here?

Takeaways from today -

- We need to recognise the attention these birds deserve and think harder about how flamingos live in the wild and try to mimic that.

- We need to have a high attention to detail when it comes to management, a small issue for us could be big for the birds and they can't easily tell us.

- Flamingos do not live on lawns outside of children's books.

- Pododermatits is a largely a symptom of environment and not a stand alone disease

- Question the science behind received husbandry - is this based in science and observation or is it just something someone else has done that has been neither net positive nor negative?

- Stepping away from these species and abandoning ship is not the answer: there can be a much better future for these birds across the board with effort.

I hope this has been helpful, insightful and has turned you all into flamingo husbandry detectives hell bent on improving the lot of these fantastic, lanky, pink wonders.

Till next time,

C.

 

P.S - for a bit of fun, have a look at this -  https://www.audubon.org/news/uh-what-flamingo-doing

And this  - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQAMiqyZDnw

NEWS: If you've made it this far and are still excited to learn more, you might be interested to know that we have recently set up a facebook group to help push forward thinking bird
keeping and discuss challenges and ideas. You can find it by searching Aviology: aviculture 2.0 on facebook, or using this link

I may see you there!

It's time to drop the "Chop" - Whole food is better for our birds.

So here it is, a promised rewrite of an article I wrote last year (but lost a day before publishing) which I am going to do my best to recall for you.

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If there's one thing that seems to thrill most bird keepers, and maybe animal keepers of every sort, it is preparing food for our beloved charges. we have since the dawn of aviculture more or less prepared this with a chef like level of precision. It has been ingrained in generations of bird keepers as a skill and a source of personal pride. On social media you can often see photos of the "meals" prepared lovingly for our birds.

But what if I told you this is not only unnecessary, but actually counter productive in most cases and probably does more to please us than it does for the birds in our care?

Before some readers consider grabbing a pitchfork and a torch, I too spent a couple of decades mindlessly chopping food up, just... because. Granted, it feels satisfying to do for sure, but there are so many things you could be spending time on that would improve your birds life even more. I'd add also that at various points in my bird keeper journey I've been an all fresh feeder, an all pellet feeder and several stances in between, all had their pros and cons. These day's I'm looking for a mix somewhere between good nutriton and good mental health for my birds.

 

That got your attention didn't it?

 

Firstly we have to accept that our birds in the huge majority of cases do not need a happy mix of foods and indeed in the wild, this would never occur, in fact the idea of a bowl is a completely alien one and comes from our anthropocentric tendency to apply human lifestyles onto animals even if it is not necessarily best for them. If we can start looking at how wild birds feed we can start feeding our birds in far more interesting ways both for us and for them.

So I hear you ask, if we do not chop, how do we present foods to our birds, and how do we get them to enjoy a healthy diet?

We think about the species and how it feeds in the wild, what challenges it would face in that environment and how we can replicate this in human care. A great and age old example is what some keepers call "spiking" and involved taking larger food items like whole fruits and vegetables and skewering them on metal kebabs or branches. Historically this has been done since aviculture began, but has often been treated as an enrichment method rather than a complete presentation. If you can present whole food every day in a natural position, hanging, skewered or otherwise, why wouldn't you? Knowing that sitting stationary at a bowl like a bored McDonald's customer is the most unnatural and mind numbing way to feed any bird is key to motivation yourself to... BIN THE BOWL!(C)

OK, so of course there are some cases where bowls are needed, presenting water in a limited environment for example, or presenting a mainstay food like a pellet that works as a "buffer" food but is not highly motivating in most cases, but in general any fresh foods are rewarding enough to justify the effort for a bird and we should resist the urge to chop and feed out in a bowl.

These Purple crowned lorikeets are enjoying the challenge presented by removing thier own bites from this apple whilst balancing on the branch. There are probably even more challenging ways you can think of to feed this item too.

The main visual benefit of feeding in a natural way is the increase in your bird's productive behaviour. What might have taken a few seconds at the bowl to wolf down could take several minutes or more and require a far more advanced set of behaviours to obtain. Remember, every second your birds spend not being idle is adding up to a better life. Being realistic, wild birds spend many hours per day moving around and foraging, so we need to do our best to recreate this for them, resisting the urge to make it easy for them - for the record you need to monitor feeding closely at first to know if the individual can actually access the food, start out with something high reward that they do not strictly need and work through the diet from there until only the unavoidable bowl items remain fed in bowls.

Some examples I have used or seen include:

Large frugivores - offering large chunks or whole fruit on branches as high as possible, often in locations that require effort to access

Insectivores - scatter feeding insects in random locations throughout the day or setting up timed feeders at random intervals, creating situations that require natural behaviours to be expressed, like foraging, digging or hawking,

Carnivores - offer whole large carcasses that require effort to break into or whole smaller carcasses that can be presented in natural ways, hidden, hung up, hidden in trees etc... Whole eggs or chicks for example can be given in artificial "nests" to provide a challenge to the bird. 

Nectivores - Present nectar diets in ways they may be found in the wild, feed fresh non toxic flowers and blossoms alongside to provide variation and stimulation.

Seedeaters - Whole seed heads can be offered in ways similar to how they might be found in nature, on walls, upside down, all sorts. You will be surprised how agile your birds are once they get used to feeding in more athletic ways.

These are just a few of the more obvious examples of how you can immediately improve your bird's nutritional welfare and save yourself time doing unneeded preparation, giving you time to concentrate on coming up with more and more creative challenges to provide your birds with.

For these systems to work, you will require some adjustment to your feeding plans and each situation will be different, but as an example I'll show a simple plan for a commonly kept type of bird, a turaco.

Disclaimer: this is not an accurate diet, it is just to show the theory and does not represent a guide to feeding these species.

Let's say your turacos receive the following each day every day, chopped in a bowl.

 

50g papaya 

50g mango 

50g steamed carrot

50g steamed sweet potato

50g apple/pear

50g steamed green beans

50g steamed beetroot 

Ad lib access to turaco pellet

Ad lib access to water

 

OK, so a fairly standard portion if you're feeding out your veggies (which you are right?).

But we can also feed the same volume of food like this: 

 

Monday - 350g papaya

Tuesday - 350g steamed carrot

Wednesday - 350g apple/pear

Thursday - 350g steamed beetroot

Friday - 350g mango

Saturday - 350g steamed green beans

Sunday - 350g steamed sweet potato

Ad lib items offered as usual (unless you have an even better idea forming?)

 

As you can see, this fairly simple change offers several benefits, as discussed it only requires you to cut a rough chunk of the food item to the weight required and present it in a challenging way, the other benefit is that once your bird gets used to this diet routine, they will start eating their "veggies" which here means the less rewarding food types for any type of bird. Birds in human care often use the quickest possible means to acquire the highest number of calories. As a result when offered a daily mix up, they tend to pick the most calorific foods first, couple this with a general trend of overfeeding in aviaries, birds are able to hit their daily calorie needs quickly and not touch the dreaded "veggies" in whatever form they take. It's the same reason humans crave sugar and doughnuts = easy, quick calories; our ancient primate brain from 10,000BC still loves that gunk! - these instincts are hard wired in our birds too and a few centuries in aviaries can't undo hundreds of thousands of years of evolved survival behaviours.

Long story short, when these high calorie options are not available on tap each day, the birds need to feed on other food types to hit this magic number, in turn improving the variety of foods they consume, rather than reducing it. If we start thinking about food seasonally over weeks and months rather than days we can see the long term benefits too. They also have the added benefit of reducing possessive behaviour and squabling between individuals in mixed spaces - everyone has the same!

A handful of good scientific studies now demonstrate that birds activity budgets are considerably changed for the better by feeding this way, if indeed this was not anecdotally obvious to the thinking bird keeper.

Over the long term, if conditions are suitable, you can take the next step for herbivorous species by planting their spaces with the types of plants (or workable analogues) that they would make use of, think fruiting species for frugivores, heavy flowering species for nectivores and in some cases these plants may even draw in wild insects for your insectivores. In this sense the offerings are truly random and can really pack out their day feeding or even just checking for ripeness or suitability – these are all still valid behaviours and keep their brains ticking over.

The welfare benefits of feeding like this could form their own topic across the taxa which we don't have the scope for in this post, maybe we will dive deeper in future, but I'll leave that part there for now. Feed your bird's mind, not just their tummy.

 

Nectivorous birds really enjoy the real thing and the stimulation it offers, even if it must be just a part of their wider diet.

It's worth also touching on the potential risks of feeding out chopped food.

In some situations bird feed is prepared the day before and stored overnight or longer, pre chopped in a state of nutritional decline. This is a problem for two reasons, the first being nutrient loss. Several key vitamins are damaged by oxidation, with the content starting to drop immediately from the moment the mass of the food item is exposed to oxygen, think about an apple or banana chopped, they start to brown very fast, this is due to nutrient oxidation in the tissues. Vitamin C jumps to mind as a vitamin that oxidises really quickly in open air.

The second issue is that disease pathogens settle quickly in the environment and prefer damp, calorie rich environments. Whilst many birds naturally carry a diverse flora of very alarming pathogens, it is not beneficial to create situations where large monocultures of a certain species can develop unchallenged.

So these two issues can occur anywhere, even on whole food items, but the risk these present is one you may already know but not have connected to feeding birds - surface area:volume (here we will say Sa:V)

When we chop our foods we instantaneously increase the ratio of available surface area to tissue volume. The smaller we chop, the more skewed this ratio becomes. This provides not only a much faster rate of oxidation as oxygen now has very easy access to almost all of the internal volume of the food, but also a massively increased surface area for nasties to settle. Compound this with time in storage and exposure to the environment, you are creating risks for no real benefits.

Feeding larger items maintains a decent Sa:V and makes it much harder for oxygen to diffuse into the food and damage nutrients. As a bird feeds on parts of the food, chewing or tearing off chunks themselves, they are only ever exposing new surface areas as they feed, up until the next time they eat, rather than those fresh areas having already been oxidised and exposed many hours before at time of chopping.

 

This Black vulture is presented with a full buffet of challenges in the form of this carcass. Feeding this way massively improves the quality of the time spent feeding versus idle behaviours in predatory and scavenging carnivore birds.

These methods are of course going to be unique for each bird species based on it's ecology and natural behaviour, but nutrition and physics are the same for all species, they are all subject to the same rules. So far I think the only type of bird where feeding like this can be a challenge is natural berry feeders. Often the fruits available for them are domestic fruits that are way too high in sugar compared with the types of berry found in nature. In these cases it can be a challenge for small birds to tear off pieces of food from large items. In this case a three fold approach can be taken, feeding out large items they can handle, also offering "wild" berries when available and sourcing a good pellet that can replicate the typical item size they would biologically find in nature, some birds are not made for large foods all the time. That said, interestingly most berries have naturally higher amounts of oxidising nutrients like vitamin C.

If I've convinced you to apply this to your birds, whatever species they are and however they live, it can be far more exciting for them (and you). You may initially miss the Pierre White culinary satisfaction of chopping a mountain of flawless apple, or removing the organs from a carcass, but that will soon be replaced with the satisfaction of watching your birds behaving in exciting new ways and generally keeping much busier than before.

The takeaways are:

- DROP THE CHOP!

- BIN THE BOWL!

- FEED YOUR BIRD'S MIND!

And as ever, all with a good dose of PFR - Performance, Feedback & Revision.

 

And if you still feel an uncontrollable compulsion to chop, take up cookery and channel it into yourself!

I hope that has been helpful and insightful, until next time...

 

Stay birdy,

C.

 

NEWS: If you've made it this far and are still excited to learn more, you might be interested to know that we have recently set up a facebook group to help push forward thinking bird
keeping and discuss challenges and ideas. You can find it by searching Aviology: aviculture 2.0 on facebook, or using this link

I may see you there!

Unexpected musings on the nature of excellence in Aviculture.

 

As I sit here typing, I'm gutted. I had weeks back, prepared an article for you all that would have been a great accompaniment to the holiday season that is now upon some of us. Alas this morning in my hazy human stupidity I deleted the entire text and for whatever idiotic reason did not have a hard copy of this post to recover it. I am a fool for sure, the entire draft was completed and waiting to go public. There is no way I could rewrite the post in the time I have left before my deadline. I may have to try and re write in the new year.

But on that note I'd like to talk about something more personal, something that is probably more relevant to the season and the coming new year than the original topic. Maybe we could consider this an odd stroke of luck if we choose to.

Grab a hot drink of your choice, get comfy and let's chat about the nature of excellence.

There are many words we use to describe what we do, and I touched on this some time ago in another post about linguistics, but I want to take this rare chance to share with you what I think I have learned about the nature of progressiveness and excellence in aviculture.

As a young bird keeper, what seems like eons ago, I viewed the world in a somewhat naïve way, my lack of real academic understanding meant that I placed a huge amount of respect on the shoulders of anyone who appeared to know anything about birds and how to keep them. I had so much to learn and aviculture seemed like some sort of dark art to me, something to be honed and mastered like a budget Sith lord. I think almost everyone starts out like this in their view and some never leave this mindset even into adulthood, that is by the way, not a criticism, but an observation in my experience.

Here's a list of phrases

“Idiot”

“are you incompetent?”

“you don't know anything about anything”

These are all phrases uttered to me by people I respected when I was a young, maybe foolish birdkeeper trying to make my way. They echoed through my brain for many years and more so because the people that said them were people I respected, people I aspired to emulate. Today I can't think of anything worse.

 

Sometimes the real thing doesn't look the way you expect it to.

 

So how then is this relevant to my exploration of progressiveness and excellence?

Critical thinking and historical perspective - that's how. Being able to critically break down a situation and put it into perspective is key to maintaining these states, if indeed anyone really does that perfectly? The people that made those statements lacked all of those traits, they whole heartedly believed themselves to be finished “experts” in their fields. No such title exists in reality, the science of aviculture still holds too many mysteries for any of us to ever be “experts”. This is probably true of most things in life, the false confidence this saturates the individual with will produce many interesting statements!

Younger me viewed the world through an inherited lens, one of progress being a crude timeline based on the idea that what we do now will push the art of aviculture forward, and it will stay in that state, as a monument to progress. What we discover will make things better and the aviculture of the next century will be infinitely more complex and exciting as a result; and to some degree this is true, from a technological perspective at least, if we make good use of these advances.

Although crude by today's standards, this keeper was working with the best of what was available at the time, in this case improving the life of this Iguana.

Now we have access to technologies and ideas that were unthinkable in the last century, but yet sometimes our drive for progress and excellence can still feel somewhat hollow on a personal level. Why is this?

Viewing the world like a timeline we still see gross examples of poor husbandry everywhere. That is because on the whole, it seems that progress and excellence are not timelines, they are not auto updated situations and not every bird keeper out there is interested or aware of their nature, nor could they stumble upon this truth easily by accident.

If I can distil this idea into a few sentences, they might read something like this:

The nature of excellence in aviculture is a vacuum; a vacuum held stable only by the persistence and examples set by the best practitioners of the time, regardless of their background. Excellence is not an inherited trait, nor is it automatically inferred by any affiliation to any groups or institutions. It is a state of mind.

Of course excellent individuals may exist within groups and institutions, but there is no “factory” pumping out industrial grade greatness. You can't buy it, and also more importantly you can't earn it by virtue of years repeating the same things. I know keepers of a few years that have more horsepower in their little finger thanks to their outlook than some who have kept birds for decades the same way. It's a mindset. If we view things from a human timeline perspective, we put more focus on the people than their work: their true power and legacy is found here, in the eyes of the birds they care for.

The moment that an individual fails to work to their best potential, that vacuum collapses and mediocrity or worse prevails as the status quo, that being the sum mean between the best and worst of birdkeeping practice, which to me at least, is awfully uninspiring.

This reality called to me through time, a rather romantic notion, but a true one. My frustrations at “old school” birdkeepers drove me forward initially, but in spite of my hate for human nostalgia when it applies to animal welfare and my futurist outlook, I do have an interest in the past, there are nuggets of truth and unexplored trails in the pages of avicultural literature that can sometimes tell us things that as a demographic, we missed, it's like panning for gold.

The more I did this, the more I realised that avicultural husbandry has never really existed in a homogenous state, rather than the gentle timeline of progress and new ideas one might expect to see, what actually reveals itself is a parade of characters throughout history, all of whom are bound by one thing, their desire for the best for their birds. The challenges they faced in the past were maybe trivial by today's standards, but the honest truth is that they not only identified those issues competently in times when many bird species barely lived for months in human care, but they came up with solutions, they built the world we know today piece by piece. There were in those times many poor birdkeepers too, as we see today, and as we will see 100 years from now.

 

Here a keeper feeds a shoebill stork in a time when many species had to be forced to survive due to our poor understanding of their practical biology, today, this is not the case, but we still have much to learn.

I think what I'm trying to convey is that these traits are conditions created by a vast network of unique individuals, all of them holding their little vacuums to try and make things better, and it's this jigsaw that links us keepers today with them and in time, will link us to the keepers of tomorrow. Let us hope then that our legacies are as helpful as those we have inherited.

 

Durrell developed a perspective that animals in human care deserved to be more than just contained and fed, as evidenced in his books - a perspective that is only now really starting to solidify in academic terms in the sciences of welfare.

Lady Olive Baillie kept birds in a time when aviculture was dominated by men and old ideas, she was not put off by the status quo of the time - her physical legacy continued to grow until the end of the last century, well past her death.

Sir Peter Scott, controversial to some during his early days due to his shooting habits, eventually found personal sanctuary in conserving birds rather than shooting them. His books too tell this story, and his legacy lives on today as WWT.

Dr Bill Conway was an inovative thinker for his time, suggesting that species housed in zoos should be presented in accurate recreations of their own habitats, not only for themselves but also to help others learn. He also encouraged keepers to think on the proviso that in the future, someone might come along with a better idea than you currently have. Change is good.

So often in keeping circles we see the question asked, what advice do you wish you had when you were starting out?

Present Chris would tell young Chris that everything a keeper needs is inside of them already if they know where to look, an inquisitive mind, a heart that cares for more than just the human it inhabits. The only thing you need is to do your best and be honest with yourself when you are not, and I mean brutally honest. There will be people who will care more for themselves and their fears than for the truth of the goal, which is to leave birdkeeping (and life) better than you found it. Be fearless and never accept that the current state of the art and science is “enough”. As long as there are ways to improve there is work to be done. Don't believe the hype.

Many years back, a late, great curator of London zoo advised me, as a green keeper voicing my frustrations at the apathetic attitudes of some keepers...

“There will be d*ckheads, but you just have to sort through them”.

I'm now wise enough to understand the more subtle nuances of what he meant when he said that.

This is the blessing and curse of a keeper that strives for excellence, the truth of the matter outside of all the human interference is binary, as are most things in nature, there is something, or there is nothing.

You hold that vacuum or you don't.

Your brilliance shines or it doesn't.

The birds of now and the keepers of the future need you to shine. If you found your way to this moment right now by yourself, I suspect you already knew that.

Happy holidays, 2024 will be superb.

C.

NEWS: If you've made it this far and are still excited to learn more, you might be interested to know that we have recently set up a facebook group to help push forward thinking birdkeeping and discuss challenges and ideas. You can find it by searching Aviology: aviculture 2.0 on facebook or use the link HERE.

I may see you there!

The Aviologist's Manifesto - Key base points for good bird welfare in aviculture

Firstly let me warn you, there are a lot of questions in this post, mainly because it is about applying ideas to birds, and in particular your birds, which I likely know nothing about, hence the questions. They are rhetorical, but they might help connect dots for folks less familair with these ideas. Anyway, let's crack on.

Aviculture is many things to many people, it can be pleasure, conservation, agriculture or sport, but one thing that really defines the very best aviculturists of any sort is welfare. Regardless of the reasoning, any bird in any situation deserves, and can be given good welfare standards. I won't seek to outline all possibilities here, but using the core values of welfare I will go over some of the key points that can really have an impact on birds, and some that are maybe more subtle.

In it's most basic form, the five freedoms represent a starting point for good welfare, and are usually set out as shown below.

• Freedom from hunger & thirst

• Freedom from discomfort

• Freedom from pain, injury or disease

• Freedom to express normal behaviour

• Freedom from fear & distress

But what do these really mean from a bird keepers perspective and how can our experience and proactivity help maintain them to high standards?

Freedom from hunger & thirst

We all know at a base level, food and water are offered, and this is fairly easy to achieve, but there are ways to improve our offerings, both by improving general quality of the food offered but also the nutritional value and species specific suitability. Many birds that appear close to one another nutritionally often have similar diets, but they will almost never be identical in the wild. Researching wild diets as much as possible will help you pin down exactly what your bird needs. This is however not always perfect, as in rare cases some species, such as large parrots, would consume so much fat in the wild it would likely cause health issues for a bird in human care, the reason for this is that often, no matter how hard we try, we cannot offer the same level of athletic freedom that our birds would have in the wild to burn off these calories, in which case it would be appropriate to lower calories to compensate for this, but do so carefully, again, with research.

This point dovetails nicely into the next aspect of feeding, how are you feeding? I won't go into detail here, but the setting and format of the offering can and should be tailored to the species needs and what they might expect in the wild - offer them challenges rather than a simple bowl or portion, consider seasonality in their diet and how you could offer that.

 

Are your birds being challenged by their food? Is it stimulating?

 

 

Freedom from discomfort

A bird's environment is also key to a good welfare state. Several criteria apply to birds which should always be accounted for. The most obvious is space, offering a large area for birds to exercise is a critical component. Always offer as much space as you have available and disregard "minimum flight requirements" as these are arbitrary, sure birds will stick to set territories in the wild, but the average aviary is still a limitation by comparison. 

Consider not just flight itself, but the type of flight. Is the species a soaring bird that likes to glide from perch to perch over a distance, is it a hopping species that would prefer shorter jumps through dense cover. This is where detailed research on your species really helps you set up a good home for your birds. 

Perching should be appropriate and be tailored to the species in question. Owls for example, like chunky stumps and logs with some higher perching, whereas smaller birds like passerines will enjoy finer light perching. Perch girth is also important here, is the birds foot going to sit comfortably around the perch or is it too small? Good perching keeps nails naturally trimmed and feet healthy. In my experience hands down, the best perching is the perching nature made - real, non toxic branches, or better still real plants. They do take some maintenance but offer much more in terms of variability, comfort and behavioural stimulation. Positioning is key, a bird should be able to turn cleanly on any part of the perch without rubbing it's tail against a wall or mesh, in time this might result in feather damage.

An area that can sometimes be badly neglected is environmental conditions. Today there are still many birds kept in conditions far different to what they might expect in the wild. Given that evolution tailors a species to specific regions over millions of years, it stands to reason that they perform optimally if offered access to those conditions - Temperature is the most obvious, and I have written a more detailed post on this elsewhere on the blog. Humidity, noise pollution and appropriate lighting are also very important to consider in the environment. It is sometimes hard to see why birds behave the way they do, but often giving choice is best. Offer an area to be warm, offer an area to bask under UV, offer an area to bathe and try your best to maintain an appropriate humidity level that matches the wild habitat. I will likely cover these in more detail at some point in the future in separate posts.

Shelter from the weather, as well as access to it is ideal, why? Choice. Choice is the key to good welfare and you are giving birds the chance to choose where they would like to be. Keep your shelter draught free and if you are offering extra humidity in some form, ensure the shelter does not become damp, as this can cause fungal issues further down the line.

Give your birds plants. There is often the tendency to avoid offering plants up to some species as they can cause damage to them, parrots in particular. But outside of the human frame of reference, the parrots are enjoying good welfare here - they are having a blast (maybe at your expense) and expressing natural behaviours - this is keeping their minds active and bodies challenged. If you want a serious go at planting up an aviary for a more destructive species a large bulk of plants might be needed and some protection offered to the plants, in time the novelty may wear off and give the plants time to establish and be "normalised" in the birds mind. In most cases non destructive species welcome areas of planting as they not only add visual barriers and cover to the aviary but also if selected correctly, can offer spontaneous feeding opportunities in the form of berries or insects attracted to the plants.

If you do not have the scope for live plants, offering bits of tree or flower browse can give a similar effect, this will likely be messy, but the birds will thank you for it. More carnivorous species that do not forage may find this less interesting, but still there are a few examples I can think of where birds of prey have shown spontaneous interest in plant material. 

Are your birds comfortable in their environment? are they living their lives or would they rather be somewhere else?

 

Freedom from pain, injury or disease

As a bird keeper you have a base responsibility to protect your birds form pain, injury and disease. In the simplest way, this means having your nearest avian vet on speed dial in case of emergencies, keeping the bird's space safe and addressing obvious hazards and keeping things clean. I'm not going to go into any more detail here as this requirement is fairly clear cut. For the few who like to shark on social media hoping to save on vet bills, there are no good avian vets who spend their time waiting to help strangers for free on facebook with no examination. If you care about your birds get them seen properly when you are concerned.

Freedom to express normal behaviour

Birds have wide ranging behavioural repertoires that need to be catered for. This ranges beyond just the basics of eating, drinking and flying. There are far to many needs a bird has for me to reasonably outline all needs for all species here, so I won't try, but I can generalise on a few areas.

Foraging/hunting - can your bird carry out this behaviour or something close to it as regularly as possible? can you improve the quality and frequency of this?

Social needs - many species are strictly social and would never be alone in nature, so having appropriate social groupings is important. Flocking birds spend a huge amount of their day socialising and interacting with others and in human care there is often a tendency to keep birds in single pairs for breeding when this may not represent their natural state in the wild the rest of the year. Over the years I have seen many highly social and non aggressive species kept alone or in single pairs for no other reason than this is what others had done before. Yet again researching our species can offer answers here, how does your bird live, how could it's social life be improved?

Breeding needs are just as important as social needs and could in some ways be considered the same, in this case though we will look at them separately as some species become territorial when breeding and require their own space for that time at least. Even if you have no intention of breeding a bird, it is very healthy for them to go through the motions regardless. Large areas of their behavioural repertoire will be neglected otherwise, take for example nest building, where many hours or days will be focussed of the process of producing a nest. Allowing this process to run it's course allows the pair to vent the hormones that have been building leading up to the breeding season, rather than bottling them up, which can produce undesirable outcomes like misplaced aggression or excessive territoriality. Offer plenty of clean nesting materials year round so that when the moment takes them to start building, the option is there. Going through a breeding season even on dummy eggs is more stimulating than being denied the chance at all.

If you plan to breed your birds, for good welfare, allow them to rear their own chicks. Resist the urge to intervene, there may sometimes be failures, but this is how pairs learn. If you constantly pull chicks or mess around with the nest you will just throw the parents off. Give them time and space, and most of all be patient. The end result is steady, well adjusted birds who inherit their parent's learned range of behaviours and are far more likely to reproduce themselves later in life with the skills they have picked up. A good bird keeper can step back and be the environmental engineer rather than the overbearing god figure.

Are your birds able to live their lives to the fullest? Do you encourage the widest possible range of behaviour?

 

 

Freedom from fear & distress

Lastly freedom from fear and distress. This can mean many things for many birds and in this scenario it is as important to observe your own birds as much as you might research their wild life. Fear is largely a learned habit and various situations can trigger fear for reasons we can only guess at. Whilst we can not always understand why, we can at least observe and avoid triggering fearful situations. 

A simple and common example seen is a reasonable fear of bird nets. There will always be times when you need a net or towel, but in the times you do not, crate training is a great way to familiarise your birds with boxing themselves up - you are giving them the choice to participate in their own care and this means a lot. Ask how you can remove the fear stimulus, and if you cannot, how can you reduce the level of fear it causes? Another good example are fireworks: some of my birds get jumpy when they hear loud bangs they cannot see, a simple solution is that I play a quiet radio to them during the day year round which helps familiarise them with all sorts of novel sounds and makes November and new year more bearable for them. Offering low level light (think mid moonlight level) helps keep birds settled at night and reduces the instance of night fright injuries as there is still enough light for them to wind down safely rather than smash about in a panic in the dark. Little things all add up in these cases.

I must mention at this point, that some fear and distress is healthy for birds and again, mimics their life in the wild, but we have to be a bit sensible here and realise that although we are trying to offer the wild, this is not the wild, and our birds cannot escape their stressors. This is the difference between a bird of prey flying over and causing a momentary panic response, which will naturally die down, VS constant barking of a nearby dog - momentary stress Vs. chronic stress. Chronic stress will cause health issues eventually, making them vulnerable to disease, by which point it is often too late to fix. Watch your birds closely, see what they see, learn what bothers them personally, don't expect them to understand the triviality, to them the fear is very real.

 

What are your bird's biggest fears? do you know?

 

 

In a very simple way, this is how I view bird keeping as a whole, the thing that ties all practices together is good welfare, and these principles can be applied to any bird in any situation. It takes time to be able to look at a bird without ethograms and other quantifiable methods and have a good idea of what the bird is feeling, data is ideal, but in some cases there may be no time to gather any, so knowing as much about your birds as possible is infinitely helpful and that kind of experience cannot be taught. You need to start learning this if you have not already.

My takeaway today is that the five freedoms are a good starting point in really developing levels of husbandry that offer high welfare states. Learn them, and more so learn how they apply to birds. If you have to, grab a pen and paper, go to your bird's environment and try and get under their skin, think about what issues might arise and how you can remedy them. 

Know the birds and know their space.

NEWS: If you've made it this far and are still excited to learn more, you might be interested to know that we have recently set up a facebook group to help push forward thinking birdkeeping and discuss challenges and ideas. You can find it by searching Aviology: aviculture 2.0 on facebook or use the link HERE.

I may see you there! 

 

Till next time, have fun and keep on doing the best by your feathered friends.

C.

Winter is coming - Temperature in Aviculture and how to think about it.

Where I am, in the cooler Northern hemisphere, thoughts are turning towards the winter for many bird keepers. That said, temperature is an issue for birds worldwide. As bird keepers is it time we start thinking about what feels good rather than just what permits survival?

The main focus of the conversation here will be around colder temperatures, mainly because this is the most common temperature related concern that crops up in aviary birds, often in temperate climates.

There has for a long time been a die hard section of aviculturists who seem intent on gloating about their birds being cold as if it were impressive. I have never understood this to be honest as it makes about as much sense as bragging about starving your birds to the lowest possible level. The first time I really became aware of this culture was reading an article many years ago where the late Clinton Keeling wrote about a disturbing example of hearing a bird keeper showboating about his Sunbirds pecking at their frozen water bowls trying to get to water. This for a serious bird keeper is not a flex as anyone who knows Sunbirds will know that beside the obvious cold exposure, as a (mainly) tropical nectivore, access to drinking water as well as nectar is important at all times - a dehydrated bird without access to water may attempt to hydrate with nectar and suffer a vitamin overdose as a result. 

I am not hoping to reach the remaining few folks out there who think like this, but more the keepers who may be asking these questions and wondering what the answers are. The answers are simple and easy, there is no great wisdom to be learned here other than research and forward thinking.

 

 

Tiny Purple sunbirds do their best in warm, protective conditions that mimic their wild habitat.

 

First things first, I understand that heating an entire aviary or enclosure is not always possible or favourable, there are many outdoor experiences of value to our birds, wind, rain and stimulation, that they would miss in a completely controlled indoor environment. Add to that, birds are warm blooded and can generate their own body heat, so can safely and comfortably spend time outside in winter. It does seem to me however that offering an area, a "bubble" if you like, of wild conditions provides a great comfort to birds.

There is an ongoing myth that all birds can "acclimate" and those that cannot are somehow not "hardy", this is an old thought process derived from horticulture and has never really evolved beyond that for some. The reality is that some species can have their biology non-fatally shoehorned into certain conditions and the others?... well they die as they are not "hardy". It is odd that aviculture is one of, if not the only taxa that is treated in this peculiar way, and it is entirely cultural. If you were to leave a dog outside until the limits of frostbite, people would have some very serious things to say about it.

Many native birds from temperate regions are able to store large amounts of fat to help with cold or migrate, which tends to propagate the legend that all birds can or should do the same. In reality many of these birds are migrating purely to escape the cold, as it is clearly not where they are at their best. True, some species store fat and can bumble through a cold winter, but are more likely to reduce their activity levels, use up protein reserves from muscle before they use the fats - then come spring, are not in their best condition to breed, which in the end is unhelpful.

When teaching students about temperature and birds, my simplest line has always been "as a human you can sleep every night of winter on a park bench and survive it, but would you WANT to?"

 

These Ivory gulls are built for cold, and thrive in it, seen here on Arctic ice.

 

Moving on from the negative ideas, lets look at how we can rethink temperature (which is not the only parameter to worry about, but the one we will focus on here). If we start from the ground up, like so many things in forward thinking bird care, it requires us to be honest with ourselves, and honest to what data shows us. Let me give you some examples of this.

Often we look for a golden temperature range for birds, but the truth is, each species has their own, and as you start looking at it objectively you will see how some species have fared better than others and this may be because of these specific tolerances.

To understand optimal conditions we have to reframe our approach in a simple way. We don't ask what do we think is correct, we don't ask what do others think is correct, we ask what conditions does this species encounter in the wild and decide a reasonable range from that. 

When I'm stumped and want some scientific insight I rely on climate models and overlay natural known ranges, this tends to show interesting correlations that sometimes match up to the struggles specific species have in human care. A nice example is White cheeked turacos, a species that is probably the most common species of Turaco in temperate aviaries and seems to do very well compared to some of the others when kept without heat. Looking at it's wild distribution and habitat shows you that they tend to frequent cooler, more highland juniper forests, which might explain how it has fared so well as an aviary bird in temperate regions - it's natural adaptations have worked favourably in this case. A counter example is Marabou stork, these birds often struggle in colder temperatures and their wild distribution reflects this. Distribution mapped against climate shows a clear avoidance of more temperate zones in Africa - the general gist you can infer from that is that there's a good reason they don't want to be there when left to their own devices.

 

The Koppen-Geiger model is one of my favourite systems for predicting preferred conditions.

The most common issue is being too cold, truly tropical birds not given some access to warmth do not necessarily have the decency to die straight away like a reptile might, but they will slowly fail to thrive and likely sooner or later die from some mystery illness or parasite, by which point cold exposure may seem unconnected. The honest truth is a bird in good health has better immune resistance, and stable conditions will help facilitate this and take one extra worry off a the bird's plate so to speak.

Each species has it's own heating needs and your particular facilities will be subject to your own tailored approach with the technology you use. If you can be honest with yourself, this is easy to establish once you have your target numbers. You don't need to even heat the whole building, but maybe a 50% area of the right climate will suffice, keeping in mind that choice is the key to good welfare.

Outside of the dreaded cold, there are other extremes that can be an issue for some species. Conversely birds from cold climates suffer equally when exposed to too much heat, this is why it's so important to tailor your offerings by species. Antarctic penguins, some Arctic falcons and Snowy owls for example, are well known to be very vulnerable to Aspergillus infections in temperate and tropical climates, purely because the conditions they come from naturally are generally too cold to allow such pathogens to thrive. They also suffer heat stress in the hottest weather and in the same way that tropical birds suffer with the cold, they are liable to fall victim to stress and disease if not cooled sufficiently. Wealthy facility owners in hot countries like Saudi Arabia spend many millions building cooled indoor facilities to fly their temperate/Arctic falcons under normal conditions for them. Whilst we can't all be that wealthy, we can still tailor our husbandry and collection planning around this.

 

Gyrfalcons, a naturally Arctic species, are well known for their preference for cooler temperatures.

 

One unique example is found amongst waterbirds, which have unique realignments of the blood vessels in their legs to allow them to recycle heat back into their body rather than lose it via their feet in the water. This is often used as an excuse to allow birds to get very cold, but again, the honest, species specific approach still rings true, as these adaptations are evolved to counter water temperature and not air temperature. 

Where does this bird come from? An Eider species form the Arctic will only want a simple shelter from extreme conditions, having brilliant adaptations to repel cold, but a tropical Pygmy goose by comparison will struggle in extreme cold and not thrive. The truth is that using taxa groupings such as "waterfowl" or "pheasants" to decide husbandry is old fashioned, lazy and erroneous. Each of these species have millions of years of evolution behind them designed to help them thrive in certain conditions that a few generations in human care will not undo.

I'm not going to delve into specific technology here as that is best done by the individual based on their species and circumstances, but I just want to put forward the idea that the answers we are looking for are there and easy to find if we just research and observe our birds. Using a lack of frostbite as your benchmark for cold tolerance is frankly very cruel.

 

 

A Bourke's Parrot enjoying some Infrared! - They unsurprisingly hail from the hot interior of Australia.

 

There are a few other criteria that are important and connected to temperature, but they warrant their own conversations and can't be done justice here.

To simply recap this process - 

Temperatures need to be species specific to allow for optimal biological process.

1. What would the comfortable temperature be in the wild and how can you offer an area of this?

2. What are your birds saying about it and why?

 If you're still in doubt, ask yourself, if you offered a bird a simple heat lamp/source in a localised spot, would/do they use it? If they would/do then you have the honest answer right there.

Until next time, keep listening to the birds and giving them your best.

C.